Guess who's coming to dinner? The rise of guest chefs
...But enterprising souls are creating collaborative spaces outside cities, too. Angela Hartnett attracts big names to her kitchen at Lime Wood Hotel in the New Forest (Tom Kerridge is showcasing his pub food this month, Nathan Outlaw his seafood in July) but she has worked there with cooks (Gizzi Erskine, for one) who don’t have restaurants. The chef and food writer Jane Baxter opened Wild Artichokes in a former fireplace factory in Devon, in December.
Dinners and lunches, from a Sicilian spread to a feast from Hawaii and Mauritius, take place on an ad hoc basis and guest chefs are a key part of the project. “The decision to open was partly age-driven. I wanted a permanent base but I didn’t want the slog of running a restaurant every day. We’re not open all the time, but it’s not a pop-up either because it’s permanent. I suppose what I do is dining events – if that doesn’t sound too grand. It’s great to cook with other people but I also want the people who live around here to have great food on their doorstep.”
By Diana Henry, Cookery Journalist Of The Year